Collection: Part Three

Reflection

24.07.2017

Today we had to focus on exploring three themes. 

  • Since the last collaborative project I became interested in exploring human body and the natural , deformed shapes that are appearing with time; 
  • Asian mid century sex robot human hybrid ;
  • eighteen century mad princess escaping from the palace;
  • sexual nature
  • desire;

exploring the idea of managing and marring the two ideas and obnoxious.

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THEME 1

The first topic i decided to explore the idea around the distortion of the body and how certain health conditions changes the form of the human structure and mutate. How they create and form various bumps and establish new body state. 

References:

-"The Elephant men" (1980);

-"Death Becomes Her" (1992);

- ''https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_PRHuuoeCs&t=2538s'', Prader-Willi Syndrome documentary

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THEME 2

Driven by the last few day documentary that i watched about Versalles in 18th century and the countless encounters that there was around the french court.  The seductive attitude channeled by Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette. The vivacity of the over ostentatious  women and elaborate rituals.

References:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TncVVqqi8NY&t=1093s "Marie Antoinette documentary

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THEME 3

Japan's Sex doll obsession and the community within. How men are able to leave their spouses  for really realistic PVC younger girl. I became fascinated by these men after seeing a documentary about them.

 References:

 "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVp9ZC47las&t=203s"

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Women at the fountains 1

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27.07 Materials research

Various methods of approaching pattern cutting:

-moulding on a stand with clear film and masking tape;

-flat pattern cutting; 

-draping ;

 

-exploring the materials in 1 pound shop and testing them trout deconstructing them;

- Lighted fabrics ;

-Wire;

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Methods of exploring and technique

Q1 to 7

  • Pattern cutting 
  • Shibari tying;
  • Screen printing 
  • Draping on a stand  
  • librar
  • contacting different suppliers and companies;
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28.07

Thinking and refining my  idea and developing it to a final proposal. I deliberately tried to develop my concept enough sustain my interest throughout the tie scheduled and therefore a relevant topic that can reflect my design aesthetic and understanding of design. Within i realised that both of my tree concept are quite relevant to each other and are relating to  very specific way.

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31.07.2017

Tutorials breifin

Today we had to present our brief and after my discussion with Naomi I was determined that my concept was the right one i just had to make a few changes as well as relate it to contemporary issue.

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1.08.2017

Today after I had the chance to discuss with Naomi the changes i have to make to my briefing  I was able to fully alter and adapt it in a way with was entirely showing my concept with appropriate references such as John Galliano, Carl Chung, Madame de Pompadour.

The thing that i had to slightly change was the third part in with i had to clarify my intentions and plans for the project.

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2.08.

This morning I had the chance to explore more details about my theme and look at it in more details. By trying to reference the Shibari and a scene of dependance in terms of dominant and submissive  trough drawing and sampling specific elements i got the understanding of what i was interested in and what i was keen on investigating. Also playing with discarded materials I aimed to represent the feeling of being used, exploit and thrown away. I also arranged a meeting with transgender girl called Rebecca who became a close fried. A model, she now is in a relationship with an older getalmen and she his devoted to "serve" him. I began to be more fascinated with the fact that the transgender girls and females in general are much more exposed to the idea of being submissive and much easier to manipulate, that as well is a main concern in a feminist community. My friend Harriet Scott with is a fine artist introduced me to the main issues of the fetish orientated relationships. Im going to a Shibari event on the weekend at bar in south London with her.

 

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Identifying

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3.08. Contextual Practice

This is the first time I'm able to explore navigate my own brief, which i found really restorative. At the beginning I was extremely stringed. Along I started appreciating what actually goes to producing a brief and baking it up with appropriate contextual informed references. I think that was my main concern and significant concern how I would sustainably filter information and categorize the material to make sense and continually sustain order. However over the course of the few days I had to refine the brief I was able to explore more and more diverse aorist witch in fact helped me develop and clear my idea of a concept and really identify the most significant segment and highlight it, such as the element of dominance and men in power controlling women in the 18th century for example Louis XV and Madame de Pompadour,

While doing the timetable I found it extremely useful to realize that I would be able to sustain my interest and research throughout the project in terms of completion because I visited, spoke to primary resources that really triggered my interest in the discussion and helped me develop conceptually.

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4.08.2017

I started researching more carefully around the history of Shibari and artist who was making prints inspired more specifically of 18th century period. I became interested in how the French court being perceived as very sexy and tool for complete seduction, a cult for fetishizing feet.

The usage and utilization of materials fascinates me.  Specially interesting I found how carefully consider the materials for the clothes in the Versailles period and women such as Madame de Pompadour and Marie Antoinette    were involving maximising the sumptuous pervert desires of French court visualising trough bondage elements such as lycra suit. I started thinking for embellishing  on top and how would affect the kinky nature of the look was . That’s why I became more absorbed in the idea of experimenting with volumes on top of it and adding another layer, dimension and maximising the meaning of that fetishised suit pleated fabric which i found in a charity shop. 

 

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5.08.2017 "Bound- An Evening of Shibari At the Flying Dutchman"

I got invited to an event on Facebook called "Bound- An Evening of Shibari At the Flying Dutchman" I was aware of the concept but i wasn't informed in depth. So i i was there by myself in a room full of people watching a girl being undressed and tied up and humiliated naked.

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Rebecca (session)

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7.08.2017

This morning i started visualising my response to the research with i had gathered. I was highly influenced by my night life experiences in London's club culture in places such as "The box" , "Torture garden", "Pedestal". I started thinking around the idea of bringing other  bondage elements to my design.Being exposed to that environment and seen the clothes i became interested in other items. Such as the body suit with is a huge part of the submissive live hiding and keeping the identity of the individuals as well as a tool of restriction. 

I also started responding to my primary research trough a print with i have developed from a lace dress that my friend Rebecca was wearing on our Shibari session and it s documented in my sketchbook.I found the linoprinting extremely accurate and romantic experience, pealing off the layers allowing to see the design and playing with negative and positive space.

Gradually i have started to blend the two separate parts of my research involved within my concept. The Shibari element and the antique look of the 18th century was reflected upon the development of the design of the lino-print with i later realised that would be highly difficult to achieve on a bigger scale. Because of that i realised and decided to translated in a slightly different vision.

If i was to do the lino-prints again i would try to treat the paint in a slightly different way and apply it on more condense places to achieve more dense colour combinations and tones. 

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Development of 18th century inspired print (pattern) 7.08.2017

Development of 18th century inspired print (pattern)

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Development of 18th century inspired print (pattern) 7.08.

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Artificial embroidery

I started researching more carefully around the history of Madame du Pompadour and specifically 18th century period. I became interested in how the French view her as a highly erotic person trough the usage of flowers. I connected with the idea of flowers being perceived as very sexy and tool for complete seduction, a cult for fetishising  As well i was trying to relate my lino print that i did earlier in the previous weeks.(reference workshop 7.08.2017)

After long and dedicated investigation of how i can make that print on a bigger scale i realised that would be a waste of time because of the long , process. So what I've decided that would be a better idea to translate that same motive in a embroidery piece.

By looking at the starting point of my 18th century references i directly borrowed details from the Portrait by François Boucher, 1756 of  Madame du Pompadour. The overly exaggerated details and ostentatiously lavish embroidery was a turning point. This is where I've decided to incorporate the usage of fake flowers over my fetishistically gimp suit by adding sensual and classical twist.

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8.08

Today I started playing around different techniques and methods of manipulating fabric and trying to keep up as well as create volumes and extreme shapes.i have referred to my visit to the V&A where i saw the Balenciga exhibition. Mr. Balenciaga's great understanding of shapes and balancing of space has really stayed in my mind so i tried to reflect that within my draping today. I started of by shaping small samples and gradually moving towards something more significant and substantial inters of Garment construction and foundation. I found it hard ro sustain that massive amount of fabric as well as to keep it up that is why i tried another approach. Gradually i figured out that i had to fold the fabric in the shape os semi triangle interns to sustain that airy lively condone of the shape, that had a grate remarkable look reminding of the 18th century's blouses with were all about volume and huge amount of fabric.

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Draping

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Volume and shape

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10.08

I started playing around creating round shaped extensions. Covering them with gathered fabric  gave the accentuating the hand gave the appearance that i was looking for. Carefully considering the placement for each of the gathering involved with were 3meters of fabric I started pining them leaving the space for each to breathe and mimic the discipline with is represented in 18th century clothing. I tried to emphasize the exaggerated shape by generating more volume at the top.

Overall Im surprised by the outcome in good way. Considering the absence of supporting structure underneath and one of the first times in working with such big volume. 

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Sampleling and Shape Development (Lycra) Step 1

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Sampleling and Shape Development step 2

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Sampleling and Shape Development step 3

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11.08. "Make it in a day" (Workshop)

Today i had the chance to develop the toile and the first prototype that i have developed yesterday and alter it. I made it into a more dropped scolder piece inspired by the 18th century top garment that were usually worn by Madame du Pompadour. Manipulating the material I was trying to evoke some of the forms which we were observing from the sketch. That was very productive and dynamic exercise simply because of the physical aspect involved as well as the manipulation of the material , however i didn't find to be particularly helpful for the development of my project because it didn't reflect the nature of the materials I imagined being used for the project.However it helped me strike my attention towards creating silhouettes and potential pieces of a garment, but it was't providing me with the narrative of the story i was trying to create and develop.

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Make it in a day (Workshop)

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Make it in a day (Workshop)

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11.08 FurtherE Experimentation

Looking at my primary research that i have done with my transgender model Rebecca I started playing with the shapes that was investigating by the shibari tying and knotting. Very round and volumes they were closely related with my 18th century references and how i was manipulating at structure. Based on the toile that i did yesterday i have started developing a and adjusting the shape of the sleeves. i made the neckline more low and moved the selves further down next to the breast line and framing that particular part of the physique.

I want particularly pleased with the making part however i was able to understand the method of construction and how to sustain the weight of the sleeves

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12.08. Rope embroidery 1721

Later that day i started thinking of translating and continuing the theme of rope and strings that is so tightly connected with the Shibari art but in more fragile and gentile way. I also wanted to reflect the over-elaborate feeling of the 18th century and marry them together with the form and texture of the robe. fully engage with it. So i began translating those shapes and texture by beading trees duplicating the rope layers and trying to recreate the texture in a fine way. By using glass beads i added a another surface to the emrodary. However because of the extra fragile;e nature of the ebrodary they were falling apart easily. So i realised that i have to put them together and keep them strong.

 Experimenting with textile overtime thought me that i can but them between layers of ribbon and saw them together and that is exactly what i did . where i used a lids or attachments with are usually used to secure little objects or beads. I also considered weaving, felting and knitting i wanted to touch on the idea of symbiosis.

 

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Beaded Embroidery

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Beaded rope fringe

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Shibari session with Rebecca

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Idea of crinoline 15.08

I started developing the idea of modern crinoline restricting and obtaining hanging from the body. Followed by my investigation and primary research with my transgendered model Rebecca and her hanging from the ceiling from one of our private Shibari sessions and er outline really reminded me of the traditional wire crinoline dresses from 18th century. 

The way the fabric hangs from her body formed really interesting image in my mind of a draped over a big round structure. I want to experiment of how that will possibly behave on the body and reflect in 3D.

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Contextual Practice 16.08

S.C.A.M.P.E.R was a great excursive because this was the factor when i decided to combine my ideas and produce more than just the skirt and the suit. Pushing my abilities of making and establish a plan to execute the making.

 

 

 

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Self assessment

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Shape development

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17.08

This morning I had the chance to explore more details about my theme and look at more details. By trying to reference the volume and voluptuous form of the dresses i gathered paper put it under a piece of fabric. I found it really difficult to sustain the volume and weight of the formation. Later that day i tried to produce a larger construction made from long strips of fabric like crinoline and bone it with little strips of wire however i wasn't able to make it stay. I needed special bones with with i would be able to make it stay rigid and firm.However might be worth considering to purchase a ready one because of the tight making days 

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18.08

Today was a continuation of yesterday's session in which i had  the chance to develop the idea of a huge crinoline and to redefine the outline and develop the idea of looking under the skirt with in 18th century was a big fetish turn on in which men were able to peek under the many layers of the skirt and get a glimpse of skirt.

For example in the famous  Jean-Honoré Fragonard, The Swing, 1767, The Wallace Collection - these the girl's leg extends, the fluid motion of a swing propelled by her lover forcing her huge airy crinoline skirt to gracefully fly trough the delicate composition. Follow the soft pink sheer layers of fabric in flight I can clearly notice the man sat at the base, peering wantonly beneath the frothy frills of her fashionable.  The Rococo period, an eighteenth-century artistic movement and style, was characterised by a jovial, ornate and highly decorative approach,   presented an underlying eroticism.

 

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The Swing, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, 1767 The Wallace Collection, London

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INTERIM PRESENTATION POSTER

At first I thought is a great way to visualise the Idea and the concept that we have been developing and present in a way so personal to us that everyone would be able to understand and allow to see our vision. At first i was little concerned about the layout, however my previous experience with InDesign contributed to me adjust it and curate it better.Also it has contributed to me being able to resize how I'm able to cope with tight declines and multitasking as well as managing the project at the same time. It provided me with  and reinsured me that the value of the technical skills, in my future practice. 

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25.08 Meadham Kirchhoff / Photoshoot Planning

I found a pair of 2013 Meadham Kirchhoff's beaded shoes from 2013. Think that would be a nice touch for my photoshoot. I would try contact my friend  if she would let me borrow it and use it for th shoot 

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Meadham Kirchhoff 2013 SS accesories

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26.08

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Positions

I looked at different poses and layouts of how the model can be seen. I wanted something that would show the movement and the restricted body inside. Being concentrated on the gimp suit i wanted to frame parts of her body such as hand or legs.

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Defining a character

 I saw the women I was creating to be totally and completely shameless of her lifestyle.In her late 30s, 1.78 meters, she is a divorce lawyer based in south of London. She could be dominant as well as submissive, depending on her mood. Caught up in her own eternal conflict confusing on crossroads of her life where she can't decide if she wants to establish a normal life or be totally and fully consumed by lust, passion and devotion. Thorn between the two sides she lives in the middle, comforting space of her extreme lifestyleI.

 I saw her in public, shopping in the supermarket for her partner and picking her olive oil and  favourite source of protein- milk.

 

 

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Reality

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Waitrose

We went to Waitrose where the character was suppose to be seen shopping for her master and taking care of her day to day duties as a salve.

In the middle of our tour around taking the photographs with, we were approach by the Waitrose's security. We were told that we are not allowed to "perform those kind of activities in the area of the store". We had to leave. 

Despite of the critiques of the authorities of Waitrose we continued browsing for "more food", like any ordinary costumers. Then we took the advantage of taking three quick photographs.

I was disappointed in the fact we were thrown out of Waitrose and wasn't able to take more pictures. However the photos we took turned out to be more than enough to visualise my vision and make it happened.

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Thrown Out of Waitrose

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Studio Shots

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Too tight

On the set of the photoshoot we had a little problem with the zipper of the gimp suit, because every time we tried to close it it would get caught in the model's hair. I had to come out with a quick solution to avoid that painful way of pulling of her hair. That was a reason that we weren't able to keep her too much in there and carry on shooting for long.

I decided to put a little piece of paper over her hair and zip it without damaging. Despite that the mask was too tight for the model to stay too long in the suit. So we had to continue shooting with her zipper half open. I wasn't happy at al with her hair showing but I was concern of her well being.

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Publication

altho I really enjoyed the process of making, It was extremely hard to produce the magazine in such a short time frame. I wanted to curate it in a way that is entertaining and interesting for the reader. I had difficulties with the format of working such as resizing of image as well as text. However I managed to understand and turn how to manipulate them. 

The hard part of finishing the publication was to chose the appropriate cover. After many options i chose a close up of my gimp suit as a reflection of mu title- Be careful with my petals , which came from the term "deflower". However I think if i had more time i would have photographed a close up specifically for the purpose of the cover and adjust in photoshop

 

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25.06.2017

Today  the tutorial in which I got to talk to Allen for my three conceptual ideas in which would bring further for the development of the current project. He used very interesting references in which were the pee mate, a product used for a girl to give them the freedom of peeing everywhere by simulating the "method" to the male genitals . I started thinking into the idea of challenging the male gender and how it does affect the relationship between the gender and the perception of male in female inters of how they relate and being perceived into the society.

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26.07 Research

  • CHAINESE ANTIQUES

 

  • Grayson Perry: The Most Popular Art Exhibition Ever!

 

  • BALENCIAGA

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Elise Daniels with street performers, suit by Balenciaga, Le Marais, Paris, August 1948. Photograph by Richard Avedon.  The Richard Avedon Foundation

  • Only Human

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Believing the Strangest Things, Loving the Alien

Showcasing alien artefacts, Only Human provides new evidence that we're not alone! A collaboration of Austrian and British artists and researchers presents extraterrestrial sounds, images, words and objects with a programme of discursive events. In a time in which we are spoon-fed fictions, you are invited to discover the truth.

Featuring work by Joey Holder (UK), Lukas Janitsch (AT), Olesya Kleymenova (RU/AT), Elena Kristofor (AT), Paul Purgas (UK), Stephen Oram (UK) and Ernst Miesgang (AT).

The exhibition is curated by Laura Prime who took part in a curatorial residency at Academy of Fine Arts Vienna. The exhibition and residency are part of a curatorial partnership with the Royal College of Art London.

  • Rosemarie Trockel: Knitted

     

In choosing wool and knitting, a material and technique traditionally associated with the female domestic realm and craft, Trockel explores the negative connotations of these "inferior materials and skills".However she was doing it in an extremely bold way with i really thought was really interesting and exaggerating. By mechanically producing the knitted patterns, I think she questions whether the cliché of women’s art relates solely to the choice of materials or whether it is also influenced by the treatment of these materials

 

 

 

  • THE NOISE: MIKE O’CONNOR

Eleesa Dadiani, founder of Dadiani Fine Art, said:

Extremely futuristic i started noticing something very sexual about his work in the way the tubes were attached together and were completely enhanced by the forms they were shaping.

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These pieces challenge our pre-conceptions about what is art. Their form is beautiful even though their function has died. When something dies in its function it is immortalised in its aesthetic form. It still has appeal. 

‘It can also be seen as protest art against the disappearance of the noise which made Formula One what it once was. I believe craftsmanship must be at the heart of all great art and these pieces are examples of the finest craftsmanship”.

 

  • ROTHCO
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VA

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Greyson Perry (primary) 26.07

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Carpet print Mixture of different cultures by Grayson Perry

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Reference Balenziaga 1951 (primary research)

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Lucille Ball in 'Du Barry a Lady 1943

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Interview (sketchbook)

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Overview

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TURNING POINT

That research helped me understand and focus on how its affecting not only women but human psychology as well as identity.I gradually became more interested in the idea how the experience of shibari and fetishistically dependant relationship shapes the outlook to the world and how those who are exposed to it view and experience the outer world.

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15.08 Body suit (making)

After i realisation of taking direction to a very fetishistic archetype of clothing i had decided to make the bodysuit. Today I started on sourcing for ways to develop the pattern. This is the first time i have to do a full bodysuit so i find it quite hard to maintain my attention towards the natural curves of the body as well as compliment it.

What I've decided is to straight outline the shape of a body and then develop a pattern in with I can adjust and cut the different panels and make the visual difference throughout the different stages of the development. As well as I'm planning to produce a toile in a similar fabric with will contribute to the right proportion and fit.

In the making i met a problem with the stitching, the fabric was gathering and forming weird creases win with the same ends destroyed. By judging the nature of the material i realised i will need an overlock to just and put it together properly, without wrinkling the fabric.

 For the final suit i have decided to produce it in a electrical neon blue with will reflect the colours with are worn with  the club culture community and continue the concept. 

 

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Stage 1

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Stage 4

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Stage 6

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Adjustments 16.08

For the finishing on the (pink) toile, bodysuit i wasn't happy the sawing machine's effect on the lycra fabric with i was using for the gimp suit, because i was noticing slightly gathering and it was very distracting from the silhouette i wanted to complete. I needed an overlock to saw the fabric with would prevent it from gathering for the finished piece with would be in neon blue.

Because of the lack of the specific machine i needed, I contacted a friend of mine who had the machine i needed. After the suit was done the difference was very obvious. The way it hanged was different and the same was right and polish, not gathered.

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Sawing machine or overlock

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Sawing machine or overlock

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21.08 Making Step 1

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Step 3

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Step3

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Be careful with my petals

I wanted to decorate the bottom of the suit by , embroidering it with the phrase- Be careful with my petals. By placing that i wanted to emphasise the kinky nature of the suit but at the same time make clear that is very sensual and highly erotic with a hint of perversion. It made the suit more naughty by this spicy touch. However because of the limited time I wasn't able to finish at the slogan so i have decided to leave that part covered from the jacket.

I think I might use that as a name of my publication.

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Be careful with my petals

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Sex Doll Face

To extend on the idea of giving sexual pleasure and relief i have decided to embroidered and mimicking the face of sexual and creating that illusion of a face . I have researched various and different styles of sex dolls.

 

 

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Draping -Crinoline-

Later that day i started thinking of how these women living in 18th century  actually were experiencing undressing and taking off the undergarments. I started  to explore the idea of lifting the crinoline and reviling the upper part of the body. I became dacineted in a way that the crinoline was framing certain parts of the body and it was exposing them . So i began translating some of the  elements of these volumes and extreme shapes . Experimenting with textile where i used a lids or attachments with are usually used to secure.

I had an attempt of producing a crinoline myself with wire. However because of the accuracy of the process and constrain time I wasn't fully able to make the full piece. I've decided to buy it online with gave me the flexibility to manipulate and develop it fully.

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22.08 Crinoline manipulation Drape 1

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22.08 Crinoline manipulation Drape 2

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22.08 Crinoline manipulation Drape 3

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23.08

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Fishing Wire Straps

 The thick straps from PVC that i have tried to hold the crinoline at the bottom part didn't fell right for this . Their roughness and harsh appearance didn't contribute to the vision i had. I needed something more small and subtle. I wanted to be almost invisible for the viewer. So i taught that the traditional fishing wire would be the best choice because of the strong nature and length.

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Jaket (making) 24.08

Today i finally started making the jacket .At first i met some difficulties with producing volumes because of the dealing of the stiff plastic nature of the PVC fabric. I ve tested the folding it double layers to make it more sturdy. Then I've realised that it would behave better if i apply fusing as a second layer under the jacket.

I had to think of way with would support the fabric but not make it too hard to manipulate.

And that what actually went bad. I could only saw the jacket from the face of the fabric with is the shiny part, however because of the texture, tension and my plastic sawing machine's foot the abet wouldn't go trough. I was thinking how can i put on the foot to make tension between the materials less. On my table i happened to have a masking tape , so i put a masking tape over my sawing machine's foot. That worked and the shiny artificial PVC textile went under the stitch.

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24.08.

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24.08 Foot issues and resolving it with masking tape

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Exhausted Model

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Take off

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