Collection: Part Three

Research

1977 — Hohoemi

When i was looking for stating point of my fetishistic research i found the history of the best Japanese sex dolls brand started in 1977 when the future CEO of Orient Industry decided to make the kind of doll that he knew men needed. He came up with Hohoemi. What surprised me about the cool is that she’s a simple lady compared with the sophisticated silicone dolls of today but she certainly was a popular and durable creation. Made from urethane and PVC, Hohoemi was essentially a head, bust and waist with hole … and that’s it.

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Austro-Hungarian fin-de-siècle princesses

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Marchesa Casati A Man Ray portrait of Casati dressed as Elisabeth of Austria, 1935 (Man Ray Trust by SIAE 2014)

Captured for Vogue by the photographer Hoyningen-Huene, Casati dressed as Count Cagliostro, a 17th-century occultist, wearing a mask, suit of gold and silver, high heels and a crystal sword. The evening had been carefully staged, but when a storm struck, guests were forced to flee in a pandemonium of soggy wigs and crinoline.

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"Living Dolls" 2013

The BBC inspired documentary "Living Dolls" captured my attention n because of the amazing aspect involved in these men's life which was to live their own wife for a perfectly convenient long-term affair with a doll. It really triggered my interest to understand and 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFoxdQYdCIw

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Matrix

  • fetishised girl;
  • second skin;
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1975 — The Stepford Wives

A film about the quaint town of Stepford, Connecticut where men have beautiful robot wives that are all absolutely perfect … except for the fact that they’re creepy. Trivia: Diane Keaton turned the role of Joanna down the night before signing her contract, because her analyst got “bad vibes” from the script.Stepfordwivesposter.jpg.1

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Amber Hawk Swanson

Artist Amber Hawk Swanson commissioned the production of a life-like sex doll, a RealDoll, made of a posable PVC skeleton and silicone flesh, in her exact likeness. Her doll, Amber Doll, began as a Styrofoam print-out of a digital scan of her head. Her face was then custom-sculpted and later combined with the doll manufacturer’s existing, “Body #8” female doll mold. After completing, “The Making-Of Amber Doll” and “Las Vegas Wedding Ceremony” (both 2007), Amber Doll and Swanson went on to disrupt wedding receptions, roller-skating rinks, football tailgating parties, theme parks, and adult industry conventions. In the resulting series, “To Have, To Hold, and To Violate: Amber and Doll,” ideas surrounding agency and objectification are questioned, as are ideas about the success or failure of negotiating power through one’s own participation in a cultural narrative that declares women as objects. Swanson’s work with Amber Doll, herself a literal object, deals with such themes through an oftentimes-complicated feminist lens.

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Missy is launched into space 2013

 An inflatable sex doll named Missy was recently launched into space making history as the first sex doll to have entered the earth’s outer atmosphere, which clarified to me that there is a subculture behind those plastic women and the obsession of men. Check out the video and watch Missy being hooked to a hydrogen-filled balloon then shot towards the cosmos at a speed of 426 metres per minute when, at an altitude of 31,090 metres, her balloon burst and she shot straight back down to the ground.

 

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"Sex Objects Ltd"

Early in the 1980’s , British Company, "Sex Objects Ltd." creates a sex robot, named “36C,” for obvious reasons. What I really became interested in is the fact that  “She” also had a 16-bit microprocessor and voice synthesizer that allowed primitive responses to speech and push button inputs. So it was completely "adapt" to her master's emotion and mood. That was something that i was really curious to explore and push as a concept.

 

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Dame de voyage 1730s

Some of the first sex dolls were invented by Dutch sailors in the seventeenth century who would be isolated at sea during long voyages. These masturbatory dolls, referred to by the French as dame de voyage. Made of sewn cloth or old clothes and were a direct predecessor to today's sex dolls. The Dutch sold some of these dolls to Japanese people and the term "Dutch wives" is still sometimes used in Japan to refer to sex dolls.

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Nobuyoshi Arak

Nobuyoshi Araki is a fine-art photographer known for his famous photographs from Tokyo’s famous "red light distinct". Often uses traditional Japanese motives and techniques such as woodblock printing, witch depicts remarkably explicit sex acts in the decorative graphic style the views often perceive them as scandal. Even though I don't like the objectification of the female naked body, I value the fact that he is trying to appreciate and show the authenticity of the sex worker's job and remind people that is still relevant and functioning. What I’m interested in is the big aspect of psychology involved in them depicting on the sexual obsession that lurk below the surface of the society and representing Japan and the hidden sexual culture by promoting explicit scenes.

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Mark Mattock

Carmen Kass by Kelly Klein, Alek Wek by Mark Mattock for i-D magazine (1997)

1997 of Carmen Kass and Alek Wek for “i-D” mag, wearing crisp clothing while in the presence of radiant televisions. Carmen’s (left) was wearing a pure white Fendi shirt and knee-length skirt while gazing into the distance. Alek’s image almost suggests that we are the slaves of the objects around. Alek is lounging in a ruffled cardigan with all eyes pointed to the only source of lighting in the room the television.

 

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Nayland Blake

Blake has adopted the bunny rabbit as a symbol of banal stereotype about homosexual male promiscuity. The same way I used the fishnets tights to simulate and remind of the stereotype of a prostitute. This method of social semiotics helps the audience understand the message the artist is trying to express. For example the character appears in a variety of formats in his work – as child size bunnies strung up by their areas, as a costume worn by Blake as he happily attempts to perform or as an oversized costume presented on its own. Funny, interactive and eye-catching the people involved are becoming almost (kinky) kids to me. For instance The Big One, 2003 presents a fluffy white rabbit ling on the floor as an enormous animal skin rug with text undertaking on his homosexual.

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Kama Sutra

  • Power dynamics;
  • Taking advantage over a number of women ; 
  • Dominant submissive relationship;
  • exploration of sexual fantasies;
  • fetishising the body by objectifying;
  • liberation;
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Kama Sutra Cover from late 1970s

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Thierry Mugler Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1995

One of the most extraordinary designers in terms of storytelling and pushing clothing to the limit for me is Terry Mugler. The ultra shaping cut of the clothes is beyond of what can be described and the way he is structuring his clothes specifically in his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 1995 is outstanding, more touching on a subject directly driven from night life bondage and fetish. Reshaping and modifying the women body to feminine hybrid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYS9OR7GDo8&t=1981s

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Look, Number: 26

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Look, Number :23

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Vivienne Westwood | Autumn/Winter 1993-1994 Anglomania

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BLUE VELVET (FILM) 1986 neo-noir mystery film

  • gentile;
  • sensual; 
  • erotic;
  • self exploration;
  • carnal;
  • lascivious;
  • salacious
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BATHING SUIT 2008

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Shibari: pushing boundaries in the ancient Japanese practice of knot tying 2016

Continuing researching i found out and noticed the social awareness interns of shibari and holist seen in the newspapers such as "the Guardian". 

 

https://www.theguardian.com/stage/2016/jan/21/shibari-pushing-boundaries-in-the-ancient-japanese-practice-of-knot-tying

 

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Marquis de Sade

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Harriet Scott

I met Harriet Scott at the time when i where I was cooking for a new interest to become obsessed and indulge into (research wise). Harriet has had one of the most compelling lives. One day she invited me to an event on Facebook called "Bound- An evening Of Shibari at the flying ouch man". I was aware of the bondage of Shibari but haven't come across it in real live and the sadomasochisticculture surrounding it.

Harriet didn't end up going to bound so I ended up there by myself in a room full of people watching a girl be tied up naked and humiliated.

 

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Romeo Castellucci

Romeo Castellucciis nothing but a pure genius. I fantasise near impossible concept of one day being able to collaborate with him.The operas and plays he conduct have a spiritual impact of the people watching dragging them into his pervert nasty understanding of life digging an emotional core. I first became aware of his practice while i was researching deeper into the Shibari culture and influences it had on the culture.sensual rollercoaster.  A virtual aspect of all the pieces I watched was the intricacy and precision as well as conceptual strength behind the lighting and involving all the human senses. finding another usage.  

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Tragedia Endogonidia - Societas Raffaello Sanzio - Cesena - Romeo Castellucci

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09.08.

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Research of materials

Sustainability:

I was exploring the possibilities of incorporating different possibilities of manipulating fabric and materials which are found in the shibari practice and how is possible to incorporate them within my materials research.

 

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Casanova(1976) - Federico Fellini

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Valley of the Dolls (film)

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Valley of the Dolls 1967

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"A THERAPY" by Roman Polanski 2012

PRADA "A THERAPY" is a short film directed by Roman Polanski, one of my all time favourite film directors, and starring Helena Bonham Carter, Ben Kingsley. To me this is a great example of collaboration and cross over between disciplines- movie , fashion, photography.Seen trough Mr. Polanski unique perspective, beautiful scenes shows how therapist's growing obsession and fetishising on fur coat while he is in a session with a client. very humorous and ironic. Personally I think mr. Polanski is making a statement about nd they are suggesting the fashion as a form of fetish and external therapy finding yourself.strong"A game, a thought, that through friendship and mutual respect has become true. When I was asked to shoot a short movie for Prada, I did not think that I could really be myself, but the reality is that in the total freedom I was given, I had the opportunity to reunite my favorite group of people on set and just have fun.The chance to dwell on what the fashion world represents nowadays and the fact that it is accompanied by so many stereotypes is fascinating and at the same time a bit upsetting, but you definitely can not ignore it.It's very refreshing to know that there are still places open to irony and wit and, for sure, Prada is one of them."

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Bitter Moon (film) Roman Polanski 1992

Bitter Moon is a 1992 Franco-British-American erotic romantic film directed by one of my all time favourite art directors Roman Polanski.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTHLx5R3UFI

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the box club london

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joel peter

Extremely perverted sexualised base of the photographs attracted my attention and desire to explore that trough drawing. I wan to develop some embroidery from the textures in the photos such as dry flowers and hair.

 

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Edward Scissorhands 1990

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ERWIN OLAF - SEPARATION 2003

I fell in love with this short film witch is focusing on monadic tasks with a huge twist. Love the scenery, the wallpapers styling as well as the  juxtaposition of the scenery.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQTxm3-goeM

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Vincent Peters VOGUE 1999

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"Laura De Palma" Nick Knight 1997

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Empress Sisi 24 December 1837

  • sophisticated;
  • innocent;
  • seductive;
  • decadent ;
  • ravishing
  • erotic;
  • slinky;
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18th century dressing rooms

  • seductive ;
  • place for sexual scouters ;
  • causing women;
  • sexual encounter;
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George III

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Michael Bolus 1st Sculpture 1963

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Borghild Field-Hygiene Project 1941

1941Nazis Invent the Modern Sex Doll. The world’s first sex-dolls as we know them were created in Nazi Germany at the request of the SS leader, Heinrich Himmler. Called the “Borghild Field-Hygiene Project,” Himmler came up with the concept to stop the “unnecessary losses” of Nazi soldiers due to STD’s. The Project was considered ”Geheime Reichssache,” translated: ”More secret than top secret.”

The sculptor on the project, Arthur Rink, created three dolls. Typ A: 168 cm bust. Typ B: 176 and Typ C: 182 cm. According to Rink, The SS wanted the breasts “round and full” and SS Dr. Olen Hannussen insisted on “a rose hip form, that would grip well.” As for the face, the team agreed it needed a cheeky and naughty look. They asked to borrow the face of an actress of the time, Käthe von Nagy, for the doll, but she declined. Dr. Hannussen suggested an “artificial face of lust”, which he thought would be more appealing to the soldiers. Technician, Franz Tschakert agreed saying, “The doll has only one purpose and she should never become a substitute for the honorable mother at home… When the soldier makes love to Borghild, it has nothing to do with love. Therefore the face of our anthropomorphic sexmachine should be exactly how Weininger described the common wanton’s face.”

https://web.archive.org/web/20110903151750/http://www.boingboing.net/2005/06/22/nazi-sex-doll-story-.html

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1985 — The Term “Gynoid” Coined

1985 — The Term “Gynoid” Coined. The term “Gynoid” was a name given to a female robot designed to look like a human female. It was given to us by Gweyneth Jones in her 1985 novel, Divine Endurance.

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Guys and Dolls 2002

In the 2002 series – Guys and Dolls captured my attention with the controversial line of males interested in "doll" relationship.  The documentary  chronicles the industry and the men who buy life-size dolls them. A California company called Realdoll began making realistic, lifesized dolls back in 1996. Since then, they’ve sold thousands of them for upwards of $10,000 each. For me that was like an alarming fact that men are evolving, becoming more and more open to the idea and the desire of submissive women no matter if they are real, or not.  The men interviewed in the documentary talk about how the dolls influence their lives. While they sometimes feel isolated from real life, they say the companionship they feel with the dolls is worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgkSngzwdhk

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Hirokazu Koreeda 2009

Air Doll is a 2009 Japanese drama film directed by Hirokazu Korea.  Based on the manga series Kuuki Ningyo by Yoshiie Gōda, which was serialized in the seinen manga magazine Big Comic Original. The short film is  about an inflatable doll that develops a consciousness and falls in love and I really became interest in the idea of the cool having an identity and taking another dimension of existance. The movie debuted in the Un Certain Regard section at the 62nd Cannes Film Festival. It opened in Japanese cinemas on 26 September 2009. Director Koreeda has stated that the film is about the loneliness of urban life and the question of what it means to be human.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6j6CPzJ9NQ 

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Just-in Beaver sex doll 2012

The horrifyingly amusing  US adult toy manufacturer "Pipedream Products" has produced an unofficial Justin Bieber blow-up sex doll. Named ‘Just-in Beaver’, the not-related-to-Mr-Bieber-in-any-way product retails at around $26. That came to me instantly reflected the marketing strategy of targeting young people to worship and almost fetishise those teen idol. The most worrying element of the story is that is that the company’s advertising blurb – which rather dubiously fixates on ‘Beaver’ recently turning 18 – describes ‘Beaver’ as a “barely legal boy-toy who’s waited 18 long years to stick his lil’ "dicky in something sticky"! When he’s not busy beating up paparazzi or beating off, he’s up to his high-tops in hot Hollywood tail!” The company also produces a ‘Dirty Christina’ doll modelled on Christina Aguilera, and a doll named ‘Finally Miley’ modelled on Miley Cyrus.

 

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Sex Doll Commits Suicide In Czech Online Dating A

 An ad for the popular Czech dating site Lidé is called “the bleakest thing you’ll see this side of an Ingmar Bergman film”. It features a sex doll, devastated now that her man has found a real human to have sex with, jumping off a balcony as she replays in her mind the bittersweet moments the two of them had shared.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLNGS9dBWb0

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Sander Reijgers 2012

A Dutch artist named Sander Reijgers is recycling inflatable sex dolls into the most bizarre clothing. Perfect for a rainy weather, these waterproof hoodies were made by customizing existing tracksuit tops with heads, breasts and other pieces from 50 blow-up dolls that Sanders received from a “sponsor”.

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Rinko Kawauchi

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Kinky Hajime

Kinky Hajime is an incredibly well known shibari/kinbaku artist currently residing in Tokyo. I was really impressed by the skills she presented and the energy involving becoming a performance piece. Fellow Rope Superstar involved Kiniko trying Gestacta before cutting off her alless to air with resulted passing out to be woken up  by Kinko upon which she screamed before starting to cry. it was incredibly moving because it really ..

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Li Yuan-Chia

The way his sculptures are hanging

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Steven Meisel

This particular campaign shot by Steven Meisel was considered really controversial and scandal considered to be taking advantage over women in an sad situations in a sexual way. I really became interested in the fact and the idea that Meisel is so concentrated on capturing the soul and spirit of the character of the girl. She is obviously extremity melancholically and holistically affected, he is almost lousing the clothes. To me they almost become secondary source and they are just a prop telling the story.

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Tom Ford for gucci

Tom is another example of exploring the gender boundaries and relationship between submissive and dominant. What really interested me in here is the sense of humour and the smartly used marketing strategy of promoting the brand of Gucci in the late 1990's by honestly and openly seeing sex.Also Ford is taking direct references from japan judging by the kimono sleeve hanging right next to the model's head .

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Gucci spring 2003

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James Boswell

James Edward Buchanan Boswell (9 June 1906 – 15 April 1971) was a New Zealand-born British painter, draughtsman and socialist.

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Rage (2016 film) (怒り Imari) directed by Lee Sang-il

Rage (怒り Ikari) is a Japanese's drama film directed by  Lee-Sang Lee. It captured my attention because of the real story that inspired the movie.

 

 

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Tails Yoshitoshi Primary Experience

Tails Yoshitoshi was a Japanese woodblock artist who arguably revolutionary exposed shibari in 18th century. I was lead to looking at his work by a men called Esinem. Eminem is a so called "Shibari scene superstar", performing internationally as well as owning online platform and studio for shibari art form. Esinem has one of Tails Yoshitoshi's print hanging in his kitchen with shocked me. The picture shows a dragnet women hanging upside down tied in shibari way in front of the women is a old men with weapon . There is the depict theme of the weak vulnerable women pushing the steryotype. The image i drew was a segment of that artwork, .

continuation of my idea of dominance and submissive and eternal relation and dependance on one another in terms of survival.In the drawing i  wanted to enhance that trough schilloete

 

 

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Dating App Primary source and explanation

On a dating app I had a chance to have an open conversation with a "dominant Master" with was open to allow me into some of the rules and hierarchy involved in a relationship between a master and a submissive. I get to understand that not everything involved of the activities are sexual but also presenting a dedication and devotion to the person who you is in control. However there is a restrictions and punishment.

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Carl Jung Theory

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Torture Garden

David Wood: We’ve continuously pushed the boundaries of what is acceptable and legal - what is actually legal is a grey area, open to interpretation. In the early years we were exposed by the tabloid press, and venues were harassed by the authorities - many wouldn’t want to hold our events.

Now, as large scale clubbing has gone out of fashion and London rents rocketed, many London spaces have closed down. In the last 8-years we've lost all five of our large scale venues: SeOne, Mass, Bagleyds.

http://www.run-riot.com/articles/blogs/25-years-torture-garden-exposed-worlds-largest-fetish-club

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KEIZO KITAJIMA

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leigh bowery

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Eikoh Hosoe

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Image

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Haruhiko Kawaguchi 2009

,Haruhiko "Photographer Hal" Kawaguchihas made a career out of asking couples he doesn't know to come home and get in the bag. Not many people could pull something like that off, but the Tokyo native is something special—his series Flesh Love and Zatsuran are globally lauded for their claustrophobic depictions of love. He's also (hysterically) sponsored by Candomania.

Quote:"When you embrace your lover," he tells me, "sometimes you wish to melt right into them. To realize this wish, I've been photographing couples in small, cramped spaces. Soon I reached the point of photographing couples in vacuum-sealed packs. As my work has become more and more intense, I've noticed that communication is indispensable."

https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/zngbx9/haruhiko-kawaguchi-vacuum-seals-couples-in-plastic-bags-for-art

 

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BALENCIAGA 2016SS

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Izumi Miyazaki

I love how  Izumi Miyazaki transforms mundane objects and situations into delightfully surreal self-portraits

 

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Una burke

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Under the Skin (2013 film)

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pedestal club london

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Elly Amoroso

Elly Amoroso is making fragile knots and crochet with different materials. There is a lot of attention involved and this was really interesting method that i would like to explore trough lace ad deconstructing it,

Eleanor-Amoroso-Fiber-Garnments-DENADA.jpg.1

 

 

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Nikolay Biryukov

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Iris Van Herpen AW14

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